Roederer, Louis - Champagner Cristal Brut in Box 2013

WEINWISSER: "Ein Drittel der Basis-Cuvée wurde im Holz ausgebaut. 2013 war der zweite Cristal, der komplett von biodynamisch erzeugten Trauben stammt. Der Verschnitt besteht zu 60% aus Pinot Noir (aus Aÿ, Verzy, Verzenay, Beaumont-sur-Vesle) und zu 40% aus Chardonnay (Mesnil, Avize, Cramant). Der Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon war besonders wählerisch und nutzte nur 30 der 45 möglichen Parzellen, die normalerweise für Cristal zur Verfügung stehen. Zeigt sich reichhaltig und komplex, aber auch präzise mit reifer Gelbfrucht, weißen Blumen und feinen nussigcremigen Röstnoten, die an getoastetes Brioche mit gerösteten Mandeln und feiner Vanille erinnern. Ich hatte gerade so ein köstliches Mandel-Croissant von einer französischen Pâtisserie, die Assoziation ist einfach frappierend. Dazu kommt ein herrliches Mirabellen-Confit. Am Gaumen eine geniale Liaison aus cremiger Verführung und mineralischer Finesse und Strenge, die von einer saftig-eleganten Williamsbirne und Aprikose umrahmt wird. Wunderbar präzise, getragen von einer pikant-cremigen Perlage. Erinnert an geniale Jahre wie 1996 und 2008."

DECANTER: "Created in 1876 to satisfy the demanding tastes of Tsar Alexander II, Louis Roederer’s Cristal has since become a symbol of luxury all around the world. Produced only during the best years, it’s made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, the grapes coming from 45 of the finest lieux-dits in the region. 2013 was a late bloomer, with flowering only taking place in July after a cool spring. The summer was ideal with long periods of dry and warm weather. One third of the wine is aged in oak and there’s no malolactic fermentation. Vincenzo Arnese: Packed with elegant yet powerful aromas of ripe orchard trees that merge with brioche and dry cookies. This is a harmonious and well-defined Champagne with integrated residual sugar and astonishing acidity. Divine! Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW: Lemon coloured with a pink hue. Like a blanc de noirs, with cherries and white fruit aromas. Balanced and suave. Goes from less to more, with an exceptionally long and complex finish. Amanda Barnes: Appealing notes on the nose of pastry dough and apple tart that are very open. On the palate there’s beautiful concentration with lingering savoury notes. Minerally and sophisticated."

FALSTAFF: "Ein sofortiges Gefühl von Cremigkeit verbindet sich mit einem ungewöhnlich intensiven Duft von Frucht. Trotz des langen Hefelagers ist reinste, reife, saftige Mirabelle zu erkennen. Dies geht mühelos in eine cremige Kreidigkeit über. Der Gaumen besticht durch unmittelbare Präsenz und innewohnende Ausgewogenheit. Konzentration und Frische ergänzen sich, werden durch feinsten, geschmeidigen Schaum noch gesteigert. Es gibt Leuchtkraft, Körper und eine salzige Tiefe, die einen in den Bann zieht. Das Gefühl von schnittiger, geschmeidiger Eleganz ist außergewöhnlich. Während es schwer sein wird, dem Wein jetzt zu widerstehen, ist eine anmutige Alterung garantiert."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "I've revisited Roederer's 2013 Cristal four times since I reviewed it in April of this year—including several times from my own cellar—and I had to admit that even my lavish praise didn't do it full justice. Combining the cool-vintage cut of 2008 with the more completely mature fruit of 2012, the 2013 Cristal might well be said to represent the perfect combination of the two from a purist's perspective. The wine unwinds in the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, almond paste and citrus oil, followed by a medium to full-bodied, seamless and multidimensional palate that's intense but weightless, with racy acids, a pinpoint mousse and a long, penetrating finish. Drink the 2008 Cristal on its own, and you're unlikely—to put it mildly—to have any complaints; but compare it directly with the 2013 and you'll see Roederer's rapid progress in the vineyards writ large."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Very fresh. Very tight on the nose. Extremely youthful and tense. Needs to unfurl. Tight and dry on the end. Long but embryonic. Lots of citrus elements. Elegant."

JAMES SUCKLING: "A real beauty with a wide spectrum of candied citrus aromas plus notes of dried strawberries and brioche. Stunning concentration and great racy freshness on the compact and tightly wound palate with firm structure. Very long, steely and salty finish. Time in the bottle has just begun to polish this and it should be even more impressive after a couple of years. Tasted at the Cristal vertical tasting at the champagne house on July 6th, 2023. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold."

JEB DUNNUCK: "I think the 2013 Champagne Cristal checks in behind the 2008, but it's nevertheless a beautiful wine. Lots of ripe orchard fruits, toasted bread, brioche, and chalky mineral notes define the nose, and it's medium to full-bodied, with a layered, nicely concentrated, tight, inward style, beautiful precision and purity, and a great finish. It needs a good 5-7 years of bottle age to hit its stride and will keep for two decades or more."

WINE SPECTATOR: "Exotic hints of tangerine and candied ginger are an enticing entrance for this vivid Champagne, accenting a finely meshed range of ripe green apple and cassis fruit, with rich notes of chopped almond, brioche and lemon curd. An underscoring streak of salinity gains momentum through the mouthwatering finish, echoing as it rides the plushly creamy mousse. This is decadence in a sleek and graceful package. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2033. 9,181 cases imported."