Salon - Champagner Le Mesnil 2013

LISA PERROTTI-BROWN: "Very light, burnished gold and animated by an extra fine mousse, the 2013 Salon is an exquisite le Mesnil-sur-Oger Blanc de Blancs from a later, and slower ripening vintage. Aged ten years on fine lees and disgorged January 2023 with a six gram per liter dosage, the 2013 brings pure, aromatic luminescence to the glass with notes of warm tarte tatin, crème brulée, citrus confit, lemon sorbet, crushed oyster shells and viburnum blossom. Medium-bodied, the mineral-driven palate is texturally poised and completed by a measured depth of fruit intensity charged with seamless acidity that coats the palate like electric satin. Well-heeled and sophisticated throughout, this 2013 Salon is pure elegance, harmony and finesse. The incredibly long finish lingers in your mind for days, if not longer."

JEB DUNNUCK: " vintage that’s not widely recognized following the 2012 vintage, the 2013 Champagne Blanc De Blancs Salon Brut pours a bright yellow/silver hue and opens in the glass to forward notes of chalky earth, ripe tangerine, and white pepper. Ripe on the palate, it is powerful upfront, with a long finish and fresh acidity. It displays a nice balance of creamy texture and mousse, with mouthwatering acidity, and like most vintages of Salon, it’s going to take time. Its texture is salty and crunchy, and the wine is very well-balanced, with a touch of warmth on the finish. Compared to the 2012, it has a slightly more rounded feel and warmth but retains great Mesnil character. Dosage was 5 grams per liter. 60,000 bottles were produced."

JAMES SUCKLING: "Impressive yet very subtle aromas of flint, chalk, stone and honeysuckle, as well as gun powder. Medium body with a solid core of fruit, yet very refined and silky, with a delicate and refined finish. Pure and terroir-driven. Disgorged in 2023. Dosage 5g/L. Really delicious to drink now, or hold."

DECANTER: "The first impression upon release in September 2023 is of surprisingly open, welcoming fragrance for young Salon; orange cream, floral honey and lemon peel, backed up with delicate browned pastry, milky oyster and nut oil complexity that speaks of the long lees ageing. It is taut rather than austere, with a delicate, even level of flesh on its rigid bones as the classic chalky marine squeeze of Le Mesnil takes hold and propels a long, detailed lemon peel finish. This could prove a classic Salon given considerable patience."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "At the moment, disarmingly open and approachable (Didier Depond compares 2013 to 1983 in this respect and expects it to close down in 18–24 months). Subtle biscuit notes on the nose, creamy on the palate with masses of concentration and many layers of texture. Fine mousse with a savoury/salty edge freshening up the finish. Plenty of driving acidity underneath but not at all unbalanced. Clearly a very long future ahead and I suspect it will need to be cellared for at least 5 years if not enjoyed in the first flush of ‘youth’! "

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "In the context of the vintage, the expressive and structurally open personality of Salon’s 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil took me by surprise. Expecting a taut, incisive version, considering the cool, late-ripening growing season, it shares more similarities with the 2012 rendition than differences. Disgorged in early 2023 with a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter, it soars from the glass with scents of iodine, orange zest and warm bread mingling with hints of tropical fruit. Far from linear, it is a flamboyant and elegantly glossy rendition that’s undeniably fleshier than the racy-fresh and chiseled 2007 at a similar stage of development. Laden with ripe yet vibrant acidity, complemented by a pinpoint mousse and concluding with a precise, vividly chalky finish, it is dangerously approachable even now. However, given its rarity and eye-watering market price, it would be rather hedonistic to pop the corks before it celebrates its 20th birthday. Since 1921, this marks only the 44th edition of Salon."

WINE SPECTATOR: " A graceful Champagne, with pleasing plushness to the finely detailed mousse, revealing a delicate honeyed overtone to the notes of apricot tart, lemon curd, white blossoms and smoked almond. Shows a rich, underlying streak of chalky minerality that emerges to drive the lacy finish. Drink now through 2038. 3,800 cases imported."