Salon - Champagner Le Mesnil 2002

WINE ENTHUSIAST: "The 35th and most recent vintage of Salon since the house was founded in 1905 is memorable and magnificent. Made only from Chardonnay grown in the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, it combines intense minerality, a crisp textured core and the beginnings of maturity. The depths of this wine, with its layers of fruit and steeliness, are superb. Even after 12 years, it still needs to age further. Drink from 2018."

JAMES SUCKLING: "Otherworldly in its piercing intensity, focus and sense of potential that is still remarkably yet to come, this is a staggeringly great Champagne. Superfine aromas of lemon and grapefruit plus commanding chalky minerals and an ethereal floral layer too, still very primary and unevolved. The palate is scintillating, moving with incredible velocity and lightning-like intensity - acidity is the driving force. Citrus flavors are locked in deep and the precision is almost impossible to comprehend, as is the length. Near perfect. Drink it in 10+ years."

DECANTER: "Just a half-point difference from a perfect score might make you believe that this is a fastmaturing Salon. Unfortunately, it will take almost 20 years before its full maturity is reached. In fact, my high score is probably quite rare since the wine is extremely young right now. Personally I have come to love the youthful expression where all instruments are playing their own tune separately. Mouthfeel is velvety and aromatically the walnut oil and the salty minerals are playing against the apple blossom. Here we have a purity and brightness that sharpens all senses. This magic wine reminds me a lot of my first meeting with legendary 1982 Salon."

FALSTAFF: "Helles Gelbgrün, silberfarbene Reflexe, sehr feines, lebendiges und anhaltendes Mousseux. Ein Hauch von Limonenöl, Orangenblüten, gelbe frische Birnenfrucht, weißer Apfel, zarter roter Pfeffer, etwas Mandeln und Biskuit, sehr weit gefächertes, mineralisch akzentuiertes Bukett. Stoffig, komplex und straff, feine Kernobstnuancen, aber auch Backwerk, angetrieben von einer gemessen an dem warmen Jahrgang sehr frischen und präzisen Säurestruktur, salzig und delikat, mit enormer Länge ausgestattet und ebenso mit entsprechender Zukunft. Wurde aus der Magnum serviert, was den jugendlichen Charakter dieses Ausnahme-Champagners unterstrich. Erzeugt wurden 60.000 Flaschen dieses Solisten."

WINE SPECTATOR: " There's vibrancy and a sense of finesse to this rich and creamy Champagne, which is defined by racy acidity and a streak of chalky minerality. Offers an expansive palate of glazed apricot, oyster shell, toasted almond and spun honey flavors, accented by hints of ground ginger, dried lemon peel and marzipan. The finish is racy and persistent. Drink now through 2030. 5,650 cases made, 500 cases imported. "

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "I sacrificed a bottle of the 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil from my own cellar to fill this gap in The Wine Advocate database and was interested to see that the wine has evolved a little since I last encountered it a couple of years ago. Subtle aromas of brioche, iodine and walnuts now inflect its bouquet of ripe lemon, green apple and crushed chalk, and on the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and powerful, with a fine mousse and considerable depth and dimension, concluding with a delicately chalky finish. This is an unusually ripe, muscular vintage of Salon, and my own palate tends to favor the brighter, more incisive vintages such as the 2007 or the 1996 at its best, but this is nonetheless a superb blanc de blancs that's maturing a touch faster than I expected."

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "Stony, mineral driven, crisp, bright, fresh, citrus and brioche on the nose, delivering the best part of the wine. The texture feels harsh, and too chalky, which takes away from the wine."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Tasted blind. Deep straw. Real evolution on the nose. Rich and much softer than the 2004. Some botrytis? Heavier and less refreshing than the 2004, as well. But flattering to taste now. Quite long. One of the first wines to show real persistence."