Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 2005

DECANTER: "A gorgeously silky, juicy and balanced glass of wine, this combines elegant richness of sweet cocoa and blackberry, with tons of power and a feeling of holding itself in check. This is signature St Julien, concentrated yet delicate, just an utterly lovely wine that has good acidity, with tannins that have melted into the rest of the structure and fruit that is still absolutely in control, followed by a saline edge to the finish. There's a long road ahead still, but this is a standout Ducru."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "Deep garnet colored, the 2005 Ducru-Beaucaillou needs a little coaxing before slipping sensuously out of the glass with the most alluring perfume of red roses, kirsch, star anise, cardamom and fragrant earth over a core of blackcurrant pastilles, blackberry preserves and warm plums plus a touch of tobacco. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a wonderfully taut, tightly knit frame of fine-grained tannins and bold freshness supporting the densely packed fruit, finishing long and perfumed."

JAMES SUCKLING: "The best thing about being able to check in one wines as they mature, is to understand how they are coming along. Still young, fresh and while not tight, holding some of its best cards to the vest, this is coming on strong. Power and refinement, freshness and sweet fruits are at play here, with a wallop of ripe, polished tannins. 3 hours of air are on order, should wish to pop a cork today, else give it another decade."

WEINWISSER: "Königliches Bouquet, reifer Cabernet, getrocknete Nobelkräuter, ein Hauch Bittermandel respektive Marzipan. Feiner Gaumen, warme Fruchtnoten von einer deutlichen Reife, aber nicht Überreife, feine Adstringenz, nobel – eine «Beauté»."

WINE SPECTATOR: "This offers dreamy aromas of singed mesquite and warm fruitcake that meld into a lush swath of mulled currant, fig and boysenberry fruit flavors. Black tea and incense notes skitter throughout, with a mouthwatering iron edge buried deeply.—Blind '01/'03/'05 Bordeaux retrospective (December 2017). Best from 2020 through 2040. 10,000 cases made."

FALSTAFF: "Dunkles Rubingranat, violette Reflexe, zarter Wasserrand. In der Nase feine süße Amarenakirschen, zart nach Edelholz, Röstaromen, tabakige Nuancen, Zitruszesten. Am Gaumen saftig, elegante süße Kirschenfrucht, feine, präsente Tannine, die den Wein gut stützen, frisch und rassig, mineralisch, bleibt gut haften, bereits gut abgerundet, offensichtlich ein Frühstarter, kirschige Nuancen auch im Abgang, dunkle Beeren und Schokolade im Nachhall, hat seit der Arrivage noch deutlich zugelegt, große Zukunft."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "More Merlot this year (33 per cent) than usual. Dark, brooding purple crimson. Spicy, almost brûlée nose. Lots of acidity – very pronounced. Very dry tannins on the finish too, so a wine for the very long term. Dry, rather Las Cases-like! Should not be touched for ages. Much more brutal than the Latour tasted immediately before it, even though convention would dictate that the Pauillac would be more long term than the St-Julien. Very intense. There are many wines this dry on the finish but not many with the intensity of fruit to support the tannins."

WINE ENTHUSIAST: "This is that rare Bordeaux Cabernet that comes close in style to a Napa Cabernet. The character comes from the mint aromas and medicinal edge, formed from new wood aging. At this stage in its development, the wine is powerful, but closed and tight. However, it is possible to taste the ripe perfumes and the black cherry juice flavors that come through the vanilla."