Clos Rougeard - Saumur Champigny Le Clos 2017

LISA PERROTTI-BROWN: "This is worth every penny of its price tag. It has a hushed intensity. It’s mellow, fitting into itself like an old library: dust and shelves, polished coppery red wood and the smell of a warm fireplace. Parchment and pages and ink and leather-bound books. It's sweet and smoky, concentration and power pulsing through the fruit in waves. Damsons, cloves and tobacco-smoke tendrils, cigars. The tannins fan fine and fragrant, across and through, a plethora but in exquisite restraint. This is a real beauty. One of the best wines of the tasting."

DECANTER: "A sense of minerality with gunflint on the nose, almost a tertiary character, giving the impression of a cooler vintage. The palate is quite backward, and the fruit purity has not really come out to the extent of the 2018, so this is much less revealing."