Domaine des Lambrays - Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2018

DECANTER: "Clos des Lambrays is in something of a transitional phase right now, with the departure of one winemaker and the arrival of another, so it will be interesting to see how the style evolves. This is a classically firm, ageworthy expression of the terroir, marked by its 80% whole bunches, which give it a stemmy, peaty, almost Islay malt whisky-like note, a tannic backbone and layers of dark black cherry and damson fruit."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Deeply coloured. Perfumed and dark and rocky on the nose. A hint of pepper but the most elegant, restrained dark-red fruit. Just a touch of oak spice. Savoury spice not sweet spice. Incredibly tender tannins. They did three punchdowns a day but did not push down to the bottom of the tank. There’s power in the mid palate but it is delicate on the finish, such tannic finesse that you almost miss the power of the vintage. Darkness to the fruit shows the ripeness. Very very long and so elegant already. Oak eaten by the fruit. A definite mineral/pepper layer adds to the freshness. Mouth-watering even if the acidity is only moderate."

BURGHOUND: "A slightly riper mix reflects notes of black cherry, cassis plum and plenty of spice and floral nuances, especially violet. On the palate there is good freshness and vivacity as the succulent and rounded middle weight plus flavors also possess a beguiling texture before culminating in a powerful, sappy, firm and somewhat raspy finish. Compared to the 2019 version, the tannins are not as fine nor is the balance quite as well dialed in but even so, there is still plenty of admire. I would point out that this wine was vinified by the prior régisseur Boris Champy while it was bottled by Jacques Devauges."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "After its fine showing from barrel, the 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru hasn't quite realized all its promise. Offering up aromas of ripe cherries, berries, spices and orange rind, it's more obviously marked by cedary new oak than I perceived a year ago, and rustic aromas of smoked meats and fresh leather now mingle with its inviting fruit tones. Full-bodied, rich and layered, it concludes with a youthfully chewy, oak lactone-inflected finish."